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Standing on Albania’s Jew Street, I learned firsthand the country’s lifesaving culture of hospitality
BERAT, Albania (JTA) — Stone paths wind through the Ottoman-style houses built into the hillside of Berat, Albania. They lead to an imposing 13th-century castle at the peak — the top priority for most visitors to this 60,000-person town 90 minutes south of the capital, Tirana. I had other plans.
Albanians take pride in their ancient code of “besa,” which translates to “keep the promise” and leads them to prioritize guests and religion in their homes. For Albanian Jews or those who fled there from elsewhere in the Balkan Peninsula as German forces advanced during World War II, it promised safe harbor with Albanian families and even throughout entire towns. Albania is the only country in Europe whose Jewish population grew during the war.
Berat’s Solomoni Museum explains this history and that of earlier Jews in the area. At least, so I hear: Under the stone arches off the plaza, I found only locked doors.
Some people collect souvenir spoons or Starbucks city mugs when they travel, others collect memories. I collect fragments of Jewish identity. Planning this trip to Albania with friends, I insisted on a stop in Berat to see the small museum and wasn’t about to give up.
“I’ll call her,” offered the woman behind the desk at the Ethnographic Museum across the street. “Her” referred to the caretaker, the widow of the Orthodox Christian professor who started the museum — Albania’s only one dedicated to Jewish history — as a passion project funded by his pension. After Simon Vrusho’s death in 2019, the museum closed until a French-Albanian businessman heard the story and donated funds for it to reopen in a larger, permanent location.
But the call ended with bad news: The caretaker was sick, and the museum would remain closed. I grimaced. Seeing my reaction, the Ethnographic Museum docent did what all Albanians do — anything she could to make me feel better, to make sure I enjoyed my stay in her town. In this moment, that meant explaining everything she knew about Jews in Albania.
A view of the exterior of the Solomoni Museum, the country’s only museum about its Jewish history. (Naomi Tomky)
Jews first arrived in the country as Roman captives, almost 2,000 years ago. But the first major wave, especially to Berat, came from Spanish Jews fleeing the Inquisition. The Ottoman Empire, which ruled the area at the time, offered nominal religious freedom.
This month, the country’s prime minister announced plans to open a museum in Tirana dedicated to the stories of Albanian citizens who sheltered Jews during the Holocaust, when the country was occupied by both fascist Italy and later Nazi Germany. Yad Vashem, Israel’s Holocaust remembrance authority, has recognized at least 75 Albanians as Righteous Among the Nations for saving Jews.
“You can see the street where the Jews lived,” the docent noted. I perked up and jotted down her directions.
Six blocks away, I found a simple black plaque with white lettering, barely the size of my forearm and posted high on a white brick wall. It read, “Rruga Hebrentje.” I stared at it. Two millennia of Jewish history in the country, and one closed museum forced me to take heart in a little sign saying “Jew Street.”
A sign in Berat, Albania, reads Rruga Hebrentje, or Jew Street. (Naomi Tomky)
Jews have company in this razing of history: The brutal post-World War II communist regime of dictator Enver Hoxha shuttered all religious institutions in 1967, declaring Albania the world’s first atheist state. His forces destroyed more than 2,000 mosques, churches and other sacred buildings, arresting priests, clerics and imams, many of whom disappeared forever into labor camps and hidden graves. “Religion is the opium of the people,” Hoxha wrote, quoting Karl Marx.
It felt selfish to pout about the lack of Jewish history when so much religion, so many people and huge swaths of Albanian culture had been so recently and violently erased. I joined my friends to explore Berat’s exceptions to the wanton destruction, starting at the Sultan’s Mosque, which dates to the 15th century and boasts an intricately carved wooden ceiling. We expected to admire just the outside, since our guidebook said the doors opened only around Friday prayer.
But as we stared at the somewhat ordinary façade, a friendly gentleman chatted us up. He spoke Albanian, Greek and a bit of Italian, the last of which proved useful at matching up to our Spanish and French. He told us a little about the mosque and the casual styles of observance by most Albanian Muslims, but we only realized he worked there when he invited us inside, retrieving a key when we responded with excitement.
We marveled at the green, red and gold ceiling, illuminated by a round chandelier. He asked if we wanted to climb up the minaret, warning us about the ascent. Narrower than the width of my hips, the tightly coiled spiral of 94 stairs featured a layer of dust and cobwebs that stuck to our bare feet. But at the top, swallowing my fear of heights, confined spaces and bugs, I reaped the reward: a 360-degree view of the “thousand windows” that give the town its nickname, flanking both banks of the Osumi River, and the double eagle of Albania’s red flag flying proudly above it all from the castle.
A view of the ceiling inside the Sultans Mosque in Berat. (Naomi Tomky)
Back on the ground, we thanked the man profusely and dropped donations in the box outside the mosque door as we prepared to say goodbye. Instead, he led us across the square to another building – the Halveti Tekke, or Teqe. Light flowed through the high stained-glass windows onto the walls of the 700-year-old gathering place belonging to the mystic order of Sufi Muslims called Bektashi. Chains hung from the ornate gold-leaf-decorated ceiling over a space where, according to our new friend, the bektashi, or dervishes, used to perform their whirling rituals.
“You want to go up?” he asked my friend’s eight-year-old daughter. She nodded excitedly, and he tossed her a ring of keys, pointing the way to the balcony. As she climbed the stairs, I noticed a pair of six-pointed stars framing the main doorway, a reminder of my original mission, even if they were likely not Stars of David.
But if I felt sad about missing out on the Jewish museum, I was heartened by what I did receive: a first-hand lesson on Albania’s life-saving culture of hospitality.
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Trump Rejects Latest Iran Proposal as Hormuz Closure Persists
A woman walks past an anti-US billboard depicting US President Donald Trump and the Strait of Hormuz, in Tehran, Iran, May 2, 2026. Photo: Majid Asgaripour/WANA (West Asia News Agency) via REUTERS
President Donald Trump has swiftly rejected Iran‘s response to a US peace proposal to end the 10-week-old conflict between the two countries, describing the Iranian offer as “totally unacceptable.”
Days after Washington floated a proposal aimed at reopening negotiations, Iran on Sunday released a response focused on ending the war on all fronts, including Lebanon, where US ally Israel is fighting Iran-backed Hezbollah terrorists.
Tehran also demanded compensation for war damage, emphasized its sovereignty over the Strait of Hormuz, and called on the United States to end its naval blockade, guarantee no further attacks, lift sanctions, and remove a ban on Iranian oil sales.
Within hours, Trump dismissed Tehran’s offer in a social media post.
“I don’t like it — TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE,” Trump wrote on Truth Social, without giving further detail.
Trump’s response has fueled concerns that the conflict, which began on Feb. 28 with US-Israeli strikes on Iran, will drag on and continue to paralyze shipping through the Strait of Hormuz, pushing oil prices higher on Monday.
The US had proposed an end to fighting before starting talks on more contentious issues, including Iran‘s nuclear program.
Tehran responded on Monday by defending its stance.
“Our demand is legitimate: demanding an end to the war, lifting the [US] blockade and piracy, and releasing Iranian assets that have been unjustly frozen in banks due to US pressure,” Foreign Ministry spokesperson Esmaeil Baghaei said.
“Safe passage through the Strait of Hormuz and establishing security in the region and Lebanon were other demands of Iran, which are considered a generous and responsible offer.”
Brent crude oil futures lost some strong early gains on Monday to trade nearly 2% higher at around $103 a barrel, as the deadlock left the Strait of Hormuz largely closed. Before the war began, the narrow waterway carried one-fifth of the world’s oil and liquefied natural gas, and has since become a central pressure point in the conflict.
Disruption caused by the near-closure of the strait has forced oil producers to cut exports, and OPEC oil output dropped further in April to the lowest in more than two decades, a Reuters survey showed on Monday.
TRICKLE OF SHIPPING THROUGH HORMUZ
Traffic through the Strait of Hormuz is at a trickle compared to before the war. Shipping data on Kpler and LSEG showed that three tankers laden with crude exited the waterway last week, with trackers switched off to avoid Iranian attack.
A second Qatari LNG tanker was attempting to transit the strait, the data showed, days after the first such cargo crossed under an arrangement involving Iran and Pakistan.
Sporadic flare-ups around the strait in recent days have tested a ceasefire that has paused all-out warfare since it took effect in early April.
In the United States, surveys show the war is unpopular with voters facing sharply higher gasoline prices less than six months before nationwide elections that will determine whether Trump’s Republican Party retains control of Congress.
Washington has also struggled to build international support, with NATO allies refusing to send ships to reopen the waterway without a full peace deal and an internationally mandated mission.
Hakan Fidan, the foreign minister of Turkey, which has been liaising closely with the US, Iran, and mediator Pakistan since the start of the war, will hold talks in Qatar on Tuesday on the conflict and on ensuring navigational safety in the strait, a Turkish diplomatic source said.
TRUMP SET TO DISCUSS IRAN IN BEIJING
The next diplomatic or military steps remain unclear. Trump is expected to arrive in Beijing on Wednesday, where Iran is set to be among the topics discussed with Chinese President Xi Jinping as pressure mounts to end the conflict and the energy crisis it has triggered.
Trump has been leaning on China to use its influence to push Tehran toward a deal with Washington.
Iran‘s foreign ministry spokesperson Baghaei suggested China could instead use the visit to push back against US objectives in the Gulf. “Our Chinese friends know very well how to use these opportunities to warn about the consequences of the US’ illegal and bullying actions on regional peace and security,” he said.
Addressing whether combat operations against Iran were over, Trump said in remarks aired on Sunday: “They are defeated, but that doesn’t mean they’re done.”
Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu said the war was not over because there was “more work to be done” to remove enriched uranium from Iran, dismantle enrichment facilities, and address its proxy forces and ballistic missile capabilities.
Netanyahu told CBS News’ “60 Minutes” that the preferred route was diplomacy, but he did not rule out the use of force.
Despite the ongoing diplomatic efforts, risks to shipping lanes and regional economies remain high.
On Sunday, the United Arab Emirates said it intercepted two drones launched from Iran, while Qatar condemned a drone strike on a cargo ship in its waters. Kuwait reported that its air defenses had dealt with hostile drones entering its airspace.
Clashes have also continued in southern Lebanon between Israel and Hezbollah, despite a US-brokered ceasefire announced on April 16.
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Boy George Shares Message in Support of Thousands Rallying Against Antisemitism in London
Boy George. Photo: ddp via Reuters Connect
British pop icon Boy George expressed solidarity with Jewish people in a video message that was featured at a rally against antisemitism held in London on Sunday.
The British charity Campaign Against Antisemitism (CAA) shared a photo on X that showed Boy George’s video message being played during the event, which was organized by the Board of Deputies of British Jews and the Jewish Leadership Council, with support from other Jewish organizations.
The Board of Deputies of British Jews said around 20,000 people gathered in Whitehall in central London, opposite Downing Street, for the rally that was held in solidarity with the Jewish community following a rise in antisemitic attacks across the United Kingdom, including the recent stabbing of two Jewish men in Golders Green.
In his video message, Boy George voiced support for the Jewish community at Sunday’s rally, which he could not attend in-person since he was in Vienna, Austria, preparing for the 2026 Eurovision Song Contest.
“It’s going to be such a beautiful, powerful event, not only full of amazing Jewish people, but also people who support their Jewish friends. People like me, who keep being thanked for speaking up for Jewish people,” the Culture Club singer said in the video. “I don’t want to be thanked for doing what is right. I have so many beautiful Jewish friends, and I know some of you will be there today. But even if I don’t know you, I send you my love and I hope today sends a powerful message to the entire world.”
CAA thanked Boy George for his support in a message on X.
“It is extraordinary how few celebrities have been willing to stand unequivocally with the Jewish community during this unprecedentedly challenging period. It is thus even more appreciated that a small number, like Boy George, do so, and are prepared to endure the abuse that they receive from antisemites as a result,” CAA said.
Political leaders who spoke at the rally included Conservative party leader Kemi Badenoch, Liberal Democrats leader Ed Davey, Reform UK Deputy Leader Richard Tice, and Secretary of State for Work and Pensions Pat McFadden.
Thank you also to @BoyGeorge for sending a recorded message of solidarity: “I don’t want to be thanked for doing what is right. God bless you all.”
It is extraordinary how few celebrities have been willing to stand unequivocally with the Jewish community during this… pic.twitter.com/w1OaGESShd
— Campaign Against Antisemitism (@antisemitism) May 10, 2026
Boy George and Italian artist Senhit will represent San Marino in the Eurovision this year with their song “Superstar.”
Boy George and more than 1,000 other members of the entertainment industry signed an open letter recently that expressed support for Israel’s participation in the 2026 Eurovision Song Contest, despite widespread efforts to have Israel banned from the international competition because of its military actions targeting Hamas terrorists in the Gaza Strip.
The musician has been outspoken about his support for the Jewish community in the past and defended Israel’s right to participate in the Eurovision this year.
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UK Sanctions Iran-Linked Network, Cites Attack Plots and Finance Operations
An Orthodox Jewish man walks by at a wall showing pictures of protesters killed during anti-government demonstrations in Iran, in Golders Green, London, Britain, March 7, 2026. Photo: REUTERS/Jack Taylor
Britain on Monday sanctioned 12 individuals and entities linked to Iran, accusing them of involvement in hostile activity including plotting attacks and providing financial services to groups seeking to destabilize the UK and other countries.
Those targeted by the sanctions include alleged members and associates of what the British government described as the Zindashti criminal network, as well as several exchange houses and financial operators.
The government said the network was involved in Iranian-backed hostile activity, including threatening, planning, or conducting attacks against people and assets in Britain and elsewhere.
Iran has repeatedly denied involvement in attacks or plots in the UK and other countries.
According to the notice, some individuals were sanctioned for directly participating in hostile acts, while others were accused of providing financial services or other material support to facilitate such activity.
The measures, set out in a government sanctions notice, include asset freezes, travel bans, and director disqualification orders.
Britain said the financial entities sanctioned had provided services to individuals and groups linked to destabilizing activity, allowing networks connected to Iran to move and access funds despite international restrictions.
Last month, police said they were investigating possible Iran links to a recent series of arson attacks on Jewish targets in London, which prompted counter-terrorism inquiries and warnings about hostile activity by Tehran or groups acting on its behalf.
The UK raised its national terrorism threat level to “severe,” the second-highest rating, with police and ministers warning of an elevated risk of attacks and growing concern about hostile activity linked to foreign states, including Iran.