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Our Southern kitchens are where Black and Jewish traditions come together
(JTA) — We grew up in South Carolina in the late 1960s and ’70s, one of us from the capital city, Columbia, and the other from the small town of Summerton. The foods served on our respective tables were a blend of Southern and Jewish, menus long ago established by our immigrant grandmothers and the African-American women who cooked for their families. Kashrut was observed in our grandmothers’ kitchens, and Southern recipes recrafted for a kosher table mingled quite comfortably with the stuffed cabbage and tzimmes. Favorite family recipes were handed down from generation to generation — l’dor v’dor.
Our Southern Jewish table — where crispy fried chicken sat next to a sweet and sour brisket, where chopped liver was served during the cocktail hour, and where bowls of steaming hot rice and fresh vegetables graced our table — is a part of our collective lived experience.
As women pulled by the force of both our region and our religion, we recognize the expressive power of food. In researching and writing our new book “Kugels & Collards,” we have grown far more aware of nuances in Southern Jewish foods and connections spanning cultures, races, pantries and people.
And we have discovered the presence of boundaries — cultural, dietary and physical — that have existed historically and, in some instances, remain today. As Marcie Cohen Ferris writes in the book’s foreword, “Southern Jews revealed who they were and what they believed through the foods they ate — and did not eat — in a region where treyfe (nonkosher) pork, shellfish and wild game were at the center of local cuisine.”
In one of the stories in our book, Aaron and Eli Hyman, owners of the acclaimed seafood restaurant Hyman’s in Charleston, share their memory of catching blue crabs on Sullivan’s Island as young children with their grandfather. Aaron recalls, “We were not allowed to bring the crabs in the beach house, which had a kosher kitchen, but we steamed them and ate them outside on newspaper out of respect for our great grandmother.”
The diversity of ingredients found in our favorite meals reflects the contributions of individuals underrepresented in or absent from earlier accounts of Southern Jewish cuisine. What we consider “typical Southern fare” reveals the culinary legacy of Africans brought against their will to the American South centuries ago. On many Southern Jewish tables, it is not unusual to have African-American staples such as collard greens, black-eyed peas and rice alongside European Jewish dishes like brisket, tzimmes and kugel. The aromas, textures and tastes of these meals made their way into the homes of our immigrant grandparents through generations of Black South Carolinians working in traditional Jewish kitchens.
One of these women is Charlestonian Annie Gailliard, whose recipe for okra gumbo we share in “Kugels & Collards.” Like many great cooks, Annie cooked by taste and passed her recipe verbally down to her employers, the Firetags, Lyssa’s grandparents. Annie and her husband, Walter Gailliard, and their children shared a backyard in Charleston with the Firetags, for whom she began working in 1933. Aside from the requirement that she cook kosher, Annie controlled the kitchen, cooking three meals a day.
For the Firetag family, she made the okra dish kosher, which meant no bacon or bacon grease. Although traditional gumbos have a roux base, Annie’s recipe is more like a succotash. Lyssa in turn has given the recipe a Jewish touch, with a dollop of shmaltz and olive oil, served with the Jewish grain dish called kasha varnishkes rather than white rice.
Annie died in 2003 at the age of 99, and Lyssa attended her funeral with her mother and other family members. Annie’s is one of many beloved “family” recipes created by — and appropriated from — skilled Black cooks.
On the Southern Jewish table many cultures are savored. Food is a vital part of the South’s Jewish geography and foodways stretching across state lines to shape Southern culture.
In our own Southern homes, and certainly through the process of writing “Kugels & Collards,” we have come to appreciate how food marks time and place, season and generation, tragedy and trauma, milestones and memory.
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The post Our Southern kitchens are where Black and Jewish traditions come together appeared first on Jewish Telegraphic Agency.
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After False Dawns, Gazans Hope Trump Will Force End to Two-Year-Old War
Palestinians walk past a residential building destroyed in previous Israeli strikes, after Hamas agreed to release hostages and accept some other terms in a US plan to end the war, in Nuseirat, central Gaza Strip October 4, 2025. Photo: REUTERS/Mahmoud Issa
Exhausted Palestinians in Gaza clung to hopes on Saturday that US President Donald Trump would keep up pressure on Israel to end a two-year-old war that has killed tens of thousands and displaced the entire population of more than two million.
Hamas’ declaration that it was ready to hand over hostages and accept some terms of Trump’s plan to end the conflict while calling for more talks on several key issues was greeted with relief in the enclave, where most homes are now in ruins.
“It’s happy news, it saves those who are still alive,” said 32-year-old Saoud Qarneyta, reacting to Hamas’ response and Trump’s intervention. “This is enough. Houses have been damaged, everything has been damaged, what is left? Nothing.”
GAZAN RESIDENT HOPES ‘WE WILL BE DONE WITH WARS’
Ismail Zayda, 40, a father of three, displaced from a suburb in northern Gaza City where Israel launched a full-scale ground operation last month, said: “We want President Trump to keep pushing for an end to the war, if this chance is lost, it means that Gaza City will be destroyed by Israel and we might not survive.
“Enough, two years of bombardment, death and starvation. Enough,” he told Reuters on a social media chat.
“God willing this will be the last war. We will hopefully be done with the wars,” said 59-year-old Ali Ahmad, speaking in one of the tented camps where most Palestinians now live.
“We urge all sides not to backtrack. Every day of delay costs lives in Gaza, it is not just time wasted, lives get wasted too,” said Tamer Al-Burai, a Gaza City businessman displaced with members of his family in central Gaza Strip.
After two previous ceasefires — one near the start of the war and another earlier this year — lasted only a few weeks, he said; “I am very optimistic this time, maybe Trump’s seeking to be remembered as a man of peace, will bring us real peace this time.”
RESIDENT WORRIES THAT NETANYAHU WILL ‘SABOTAGE’ DEAL
Some voiced hopes of returning to their homes, but the Israeli military issued a fresh warning to Gazans on Saturday to stay out of Gaza City, describing it as a “dangerous combat zone.”
Gazans have faced previous false dawns during the past two years, when Trump and others declared at several points during on-off negotiations between Hamas, Israel and Arab and US mediators that a deal was close, only for war to rage on.
“Will it happen? Can we trust Trump? Maybe we trust Trump, but will Netanyahu abide this time? He has always sabotaged everything and continued the war. I hope he ends it now,” said Aya, 31, who was displaced with her family to Deir Al-Balah in the central Gaza Strip.
She added: “Maybe there is a chance the war ends at October 7, two years after it began.”
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Mass Rally in Rome on Fourth Day of Italy’s Pro-Palestinian Protests
A Pro-Palestinian demonstrator waves a Palestinian flag during a national protest for Gaza in Rome, Italy, October 4, 2025. Photo: REUTERS/Claudia Greco
Large crowds assembled in central Rome on Saturday for the fourth straight day of protests in Italy since Israel intercepted an international flotilla trying to deliver aid to Gaza, and detained its activists.
People holding banners and Palestinian flags, chanting “Free Palestine” and other slogans, filed past the Colosseum, taking part in a march that organizers hoped would attract at least 1 million people.
“I’m here with a lot of other friends because I think it is important for us all to mobilize individually,” Francesco Galtieri, a 65-year-old musician from Rome, said. “If we don’t all mobilize, then nothing will change.”
Since Israel started blocking the flotilla late on Wednesday, protests have sprung up across Europe and in other parts of the world, but in Italy they have been a daily occurrence, in multiple cities.
On Friday, unions called a general strike in support of the flotilla, with demonstrations across the country that attracted more than 2 million, according to organizers. The interior ministry estimated attendance at around 400,000.
Italy’s right-wing government has been critical of the protests, with Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni suggesting that people would skip work for Gaza just as an excuse for a longer weekend break.
On Saturday, Meloni blamed protesters for insulting graffiti that appeared on a statue of the late Pope John Paul II outside Rome’s main train station, where Pro-Palestinian groups have been holding a protest picket.
“They say they are taking to the streets for peace, but then they insult the memory of a man who was a true defender and builder of peace. A shameful act committed by people blinded by ideology,” she said in a statement.
Israel launched its Gaza offensive after Hamas terrorists staged a cross border attack on October 7, 2023, killing some 1,200 people and taking 251 people hostage.
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Hamas Says It Agrees to Release All Israeli Hostages Under Trump Gaza Plan
Smoke rises during an Israeli military operation in Gaza City, as seen from the central Gaza Strip, October 2, 2025. Photo: REUTERS/Dawoud Abu Alkas
Hamas said on Friday it had agreed to release all Israeli hostages, alive or dead, under the terms of US President Donald Trump’s Gaza proposal, and signaled readiness to immediately enter mediated negotiations to discuss the details.