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2 Jewish delis and a modest falafel joint are among the ‘100 best restaurants in NYC’
(New York Jewish Week) — The legacy Upper West Side appetizing store Barney Greengrass and the hot new “Jewish luncheonette” S&P are among the Jewish eateries on the New York Times’ list of the city’s top 100 restaurants of 2023.
Other Jewish and Jewish-adjacent restaurants on the list are Falafel Tanami, an unassuming kosher falafel counter in Midwood, Brooklyn, and Mark’s Off Madison, which offers eggplant parm alongside smoked fish, freshly baked bagels and Jewish rye bread.
The list, compiled by restaurant critic Pete Wells, includes 65 spots in Manhattan, 19 each in Brooklyn and Queens, four in the Bronx and two in Staten Island.
Barney Greengrass, a neighborhood icon on 541 Amsterdam Ave. that has been open since 1908, is feted for its herring, latkes, scrambled eggs and smoked fish.
At Flatiron’s S&P Lunch (174 5th Ave.), which reopened and reinvented the classic Eisenberg’s deli in 2022, Wells calls a lunch there a “time-honored Manhattan ritual.” With the updated menu, “the pastrami, tuna-salad, chopped liver and so on are as easy to love as the atmosphere was all along.”
Wells calls Mark’s Off Madison, a bakery and restaurant, a “career retrospective” from Mark Strausman, who once was the chef at Freds at Barneys and Campagna.
As for Falafel Tanami (1305 East 17th St.), “Your options are basically falafel or sabich,” Wells writes, referring to its fried eggplant and hard-boiled egg sandwich. “The falafel are extraordinary. The thick cushions of pita, baked to order, may be better yet.” The food is “as fresh as if you were standing in a market in Tel Aviv.”
Also mentioned is the Lower East Side’s Shopsin’s General Store, which occupies Stall #8 in Essex Street Market (88 Essex St.). The eponymous diner and its extensive menu was run by the Jewish and famously eccentric Kenny Shopsin from 1973 until his death in 2018. “Seeing the restaurant he founded on this list would kill Kenny Shopsin if he weren’t already dead,” Wells writes.
Nearby at 86 Allen St. is Amanda Cohen’s vegan restaurant Dirt Candy, number 60 on the list, which has been open since 2008. “I have a big family and we spend a lot of time together around the Jewish holidays, so to me that’s always been a really important time in my life,” Cohen told Life & Thyme in 2016. “Those are certainly the moments I love food the most, because it’s about the people.”
Israeli-inspired Middle Eastern restaurant Shukette (230 9th Ave.), whose name is a riff on the Hebrew and Arabic word “shuk,” meaning market, gets a nod, though Brooklyn-born chef Ayesha Nurdjaja is neither Jewish, Israeli or Arab. Wells names the spicy house pickles, labneh, hummus, pita and laffa brushed with za’atar in a mouthwatering sequence.
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Quiz: For America 250, how well do you know U.S. Jewish history?
The Forward produced The Great American Jewish History Quiz! using Claude, a generative artificial intelligence tool by Anthropic. All questions and answers were researched and written by Louis Keene, who prompted Claude to create the user interface and underlying code and to track statistics.
Questions or feedback? Send us an email: forwardquiz@forward.com.
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Mazel tov, Taylor and Travis: A rabbi’s imagined wedding speech under the celebrity chuppah
I have to admit, as a rabbi, I never imagined I’d be standing at a wedding bringing together two of America’s great religions: football and Taylor Swift.
And yet here we are. I’ve officiated weddings in synagogues, in backyards, on beaches. I was not prepared for Madison Square Garden.
Before I get to the blessings, I need to share a little Torah with you. Don’t worry: I’ll keep it short. Half this room is Swifties and half is Chiefs fans, and the only thing you agree on is that you didn’t come here for a sermon.
The very first matchmaking story in the Torah involves a man named Eliezer, sent by the patriarch Abraham on a mission: find a wife for Abraham’s son Isaac. Eliezer travels far, he arrives at a well, and he devises a test. A test that looked past beauty, past pedigree, past fame, past achievement.
The test is simple: When a stranger arrives tired and thirsty, what do you do?
Rebecca does more than just offer water to Eliezer. She sees his camels are also thirsty, and without being asked, she waters every single one. Ten camels. Anyone who has ever watered a camel knows this is not a small thing.
And the Torah stops to tell us: this is the wife for Isaac.
The Torah could have stopped to admire her talent or her beauty. Instead, it stopped to admire her kindness. Because she saw need in the world and responded to it, just because that’s who she was.
Taylor and Travis, I think about that story when I think about the two of you. Because what we know about you isn’t just about the Grammys or the Super Bowls. It’s about the friendships. It’s about the family. It’s the way Travis’s eyes light up when he talks about his brother Jason. It’s the way Taylor has shown up, year after year, for her crew — the people who have been with her since the beginning, long before the sold-out stadiums.
These are people who know how to love. Eliezer traveled hundreds of miles looking for exactly that. Turns out it was worth the trip.
Red zones and red carpets
Now, because we have a professional athlete here, permit me a football analogy.
Every great quarterback needs protection from a tight end like Travis. Every championship team depends on its offensive line. The line doesn’t get the glory. They don’t score the touchdowns. But without them, nothing works.
Marriage is the same. Protect one another. Protect each other’s dignity. Protect each other’s dreams. Protect each other’s hearts. Be each other’s offensive line on the hard days.
And because we also have one of the greatest songwriters in history standing before me — someone who has written the soundtrack to a generation — permit me a music analogy as well.
Every beautiful song has both melody and rhythm. Sometimes one instrument leads. Sometimes another does. But what makes the song truly beautiful is that each makes room for the other. The goal is never the solo. The goal is the harmony.
Marriage is exactly the same. There will be seasons when one of you carries more. Seasons when one of you needs extra support. Seasons of celebration and seasons of challenge. The goal is to reflect each other’s light. The goal is to create something together that neither of you could have created alone.
So, Taylor and Travis, here is my blessing for you: May you always remember what drew you to each other, the soul beneath the spotlight. May you protect each other fiercely and gently, in the stadiums and in the quiet rooms where no one is watching. May you make room for one another — to lead and to follow, season by season, era by era.
And may the love you build together — the real love, the private love, the love that has absolutely nothing to do with cameras or crowds — be the greatest thing either of you ever creates.
Mazel tov.
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The 50 most interesting Jews in American history you’ve probably never heard of
The United States is turning 250 years old. You know the stories of many of the Jews who have helped to shape the country’s history and culture, including such luminaries as Ruth Bader Ginsburg, Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel, Philip Roth and Barbra Streisand.
But behind the American Jewish names we know and revere are the stories of many other American Jews who influenced the nation — and whose lives reflected the country’s efforts to realize its founding promises — who have found less purchase in history’s spotlight. To celebrate the 250th anniversary of this country’s founding, we’ve collected 50 of those stories here.
Among their number are scientists, athletes, lawmakers, clergymen and a couple genuine American characters — the type of people who, no matter where they were born, ended up living lives that speak to the best of what the U.S. has to offer its citizens.
As one of our honorees, the author Edna Ferber, wrote: “America — rather, the United States — seems to me to be the Jew among the nations. It is resourceful, adaptable, maligned, envied, feared, imposed upon. It is warmhearted, overfriendly; quick-witted, lavish, colorful; given to extravagant speech and gestures. Its people are travelers and wanderers by nature, moving, shifting, restless; swarming in Fords, in ocean liners; craving entertainment; volatile. The schnuckle among the nations of the world.”
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